Ë®¹ûÅÉAV

The owner of Upstate's Finest Barbershop in Auburn has showcased his creativity with hairstyles there since 2015. Now, he’s sharing a taste of his Dominican heritage.

One week ago, Rafy's Caribbean Restaurant officially opened at 207 State St.

Espinal told Ë®¹ûÅÉAV he loves cooking, and opening a restaurant had always been in the back of his mind. It even came up in barbershop conversation. There are also few places serving Dominican cuisine in the area, he noted. So he took a chance — both for himself and for his cousin, Libania Franco-Miller, who is co-managing and cooking there.

"It was a roller coaster, for sure," Espinal said.

'Tis the sazon

Dominican cuisine is based around two things — rice and beans.

What makes it interesting is the seasonings, Espinal said. While that can mean heat, he continued with a smile by saying, "We're not spicy." 

There's more than that to the menu of Rafy's. Most taste buds will pick up on pepper, garlic and oregano. They're part of sazon, a blend with coriander, cumin and achiote, a burnt orange-red paste derived from seeds of the tree of the same name, for color and flavor. The blend is what enlivens the roasted beef, chicken and pork in the restaurant's stews and entrees like empanadas.

"Empanadas are the equivalent of a cheeseburger," Espinal said of the Caribbean staple.

Eventually, he hopes to expand the menu with more traditional Dominican items, like goat. 

"It's delicious. It's very tender," Espinal said. "It's similar to lamb but way better. We use lots of garlic."

Food for thought

Espinal said he was uncertain whether the people of Auburn would welcome a new culture into its food scene.

He was also "a little afraid" to open a restaurant, being new to the business. 

But the reception for Rafy's has been positive so far, he said. 

The restaurant is focused on takeout, so its dining room has only a few tables near a decorative trellis where glowing neon announces the owner's nickname atop leafy greens. 

He hopes people continue to stop in, grab something to go and enjoy it — even if it's just a snack of fried plantains, one never knows what conversation it can spark.

That's because food brings people together, Espinal said.

He recalled spending time as a child with his parents and grandparents in the kitchen, which was as much of a communal space as the living room.

Whether it's for those small takeout meals or parties, cooking is a time of lively conversation and laughter.

"It's been a beautiful adventure," Espinal said.